Morgenhorn – Wissy Frau – Bluemisalp traverse

From the 16th of July till the 19th of July we planned a four days mountaineering adventure, with the traverse of the 3 peaks on the Bluemisalphorn massif, as well as the climb of the Gspaltenhorn.

I joined the group on Thursday morning at the Blüemisalphutte, leaving from Kandersteg with the cable car up to the Oeschinensee (1600 m) and then fast walk up to the Blüemisalphutte (2840 m), in 2 hours.


After lunch we went on the glacier next to the hut and refreshed a bit of Ice Climbing techniques, as well as challenging each other on who could to the top of a ice wall with the least swings, the loser later payed for drinks!

Friday, the alarm went off at 3.00am, quick breakfast and then we set off.

We follow normal route by ascending Morgenhorn via the NW Ridge. This PD route starts at the Blümlisalphütte and ascends the Morgenhorn Glacier to the NW Ridge which is then climbed directly in about 3.5 hours from the hut.

From the summit of the Morgenhornn we followed the narrow corniced ridge tod the summit of the Weisse (Wyssi) Frau. This ridge is rated PD+ and takes one to two hours depending on conditions.

The most interesting part of the traverse is the portion from the summit of the Weisse (Wyssi) Frau to the Blümlisalphorn (Northeast Ridge of the Blümlisalphorn). This is a marvelous wavy narrow corniced ridge involving two places of descent and some delicate climbing. This portion is rated AD and requires two to four hours depending on conditions.

We then descended via the NW Ridge of the Blümlisalphorn (PD) then back across the glacier to the Blümlisalphütte. The ridge is straight forward, but caution to the down sloping limestone slabs near its base. These are very treacherous when snow covered and/or icy. (

To complete the traverse it took us around 9 hours, by noon we were back at the hut enjoying a fresh beer with some rösti. After dinner everyone went to bed pretty early, so did I. Unfortunately in the night and the following day 5 people were sick, I therefore decided to go back home in the afternoon.


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